Top to Bottom: Phillip Basone

Top to Bottom is quick-fire interview series where we show off our cutest friends in the world of food.

basone

For this week’s installment of Top to Bottom, we find ourselves sharing a delicious slice of homemade pound cake in New York City’s West Village. The charming third floor apartment off of Bleeker Street is home to 24-year-old heartbreaker Phillip Basone, the Executive Chef of Jonathan Waxman’s famed restaurant Barbuto. We sat down with Phillip to learn about his passion for food and how Emeril changed his life.

basone2

Interview by Alexander Lawrence

For more Top to Bottom features:

Hes Carvalho

Gus Reckle

Jon Fancey

Lets start at the beginning, growing up in Connecticut with your family. Did your mother or father cook?

My parents never cooked. My father doesn’t touch a pot and my mom only cooked derivatives of ground beef, which is so funny because my grandmother was incredible in the kitchen.  I am very lucky with the parents I was given, but how many times can you eat Bertucci’s and Chinese food in one week?

Very True. When did you start cooking?

I didn’t have very many friends growing up, I was a loner who hated school. I would come home everyday and I would watch the Food Network. I would always watch Emeril Live. This was when I began to cook. After every episode I would go and remake whatever Emeril had just made, once I started cooking more and more I began to realize that I was actually quite good.

Eventually my parents picked up on my interests and gave me their support to peruse a career in the kitchen. I transferred out of my AP classes and began to work closely with the foods teacher; she really helped build my confidence through her support and mentorship. I wasn’t out in high school and didn’t really care for my classmates, so having someone around that was willing to dedicate their time to my passion was really amazing.

Did you attend culinary school?

After high school I immediately moved to the city to attend the French Culinary Institute, I knew I had to be in New York if I was going to continue on this path. I started interning at Barbuto while I was a student.

How did you get connected with Barbuto?

Well the chef and owner Jonathan Waxman is a hero of mine, I had his cookbook when I was growing up. When I realized he had a restaurant in New York I looked it up, at that time restaurants would post the chefs email on their websites. I took the chance and sent a very long email to then Executive Chef Roel Alcudia, and I was invited for a tour. That was my first night as part of Barbuto, I was immediately placed on the line and a member of the team. I worked for free as an unpaid intern for 8 months; I was willing to do what ever they wanted if it meant getting in that kitchen.

 After eight months, were you offered a position?

I was offered a position for that upcoming summer, but I couldn’t wait. I had a chance meeting with restauranteur Mark Vetri when he dined at Barbuto one evening, my coworkers let me cook the entire meal for him and he loved it. He offered me a job a few days later at Amis in Philadelphia, so I took the job and moved. After a very short time I realized that I had not made the right decision moving, so I packed up and went back to Connecticut to regroup and figure things out. I got really lucky, my first day back home I received a call from Roel at Barbuto who invited me to work under him again. I would eventually follow him to Left Bank where I was helping to revamp the their Dessert program, I came in and showed the staff some new techniques and recipes. I left there after the owner asked me to “make a brownie sundae”, I don’t work at Chili’s.

I would move to another restaurant for a year before branching out into culinary publications. I went and worked at Saveur Magazine as a recipe tester and at Good Housekeeping where I would test kitchen appliances. That was a really interesting experience for me; I worked with 80-year-old women who were shocked when I would come in, in my Rick Owens.

 How long did you stay there?

Three years, it was so weird. I am not a morning person; the 9 to 5 thing doesn’t work for me. I then went back to Barbuto where I would become the Sous chef and then eventually become the Executive chef.

Your relationship with Jonathan is still strong after all this time?

Yes. He is amazing. Barbuto is my family. I can truly say that I owe that place my career. He teaches you how to be a thinker, a lesson that I have carried with me since day one.

Where do you see the restaurant industry going in the next few years, what is the next big thing?

I honestly hate fads, I don’t even really eat out. I love a good box of chicken fingers with ranch over a dinner out any day. I am however very interested in the American perception of good food, I think that as a country we really need to evaluate how we define what it means for food to be innovative, healthy, eco friendly, and most importantly delicious.  

Where do you see yourself in the future? Where do you want your career to take you?

I want to own my own restaurant in New York City. It is really as simple as that. I can’t imagine myself doing anything else. 

Top to Bottom: Van Kuch

Top to Bottom is quick-fire interview series where we show off our cutest friends in the world of food.

Van Kuch

Van Kuch

For the second installment of Top to Bottom we are traveling to Brooklyn to eat some homemade hotpot with the ever so charming dessert chef Vanarin Kuch. Van is currently the head of the dessert programs at Chef Jesse Schenker’s restaurant’s The Gander and Recette, where he is using his skills in the kitchen to create one of a kind desserts. 

Van Kuch

Van Kuch

Interview and text by Alexander Lawrence

For more Top to Bottom features:

Phillip Basone

Hes Carvalho

Gus Reckle

Jon Fancey

 

So you were born in Texas? 

Yes, I was born in Houston. My parents are Cambodian and came here as refugees.

Did your parents cook?

All the time, my mom is the most amazing cook. One of my favorite things about living and visiting Houston is my family’s garden; my aunts are growing things that you cannot find anywhere. My family also owned a doughnut and fried chicken shop in Houston, the Cambodian dream at the time. 

That’s amazing! Did you work there?

I did. I would work there during the summers when it was slow and fry doughnuts.

How did you get involved in food, the Doughnut Shop?

In middle school and high school I was a gymnast and a cheerleader, I had the Olympic dream and everything. During my freshman year at University of Houston though I realized I didn’t know what I wanted, so I took a 10-month hiatus to figure things out. 

How did you maneuver into desserts?

I was opening a hotel, and I always hung around the pastry chef who would eventually hire me to work under her. I moved to the restaurant Tiny Box Woods for a year and half where I was the pastry chef up until I left Houston. This was also when I got involved with Top Chef Desserts.

When and why did you make the move to New York?

I am a self-taught pastry chef, everything I know about cooking is from trying to make it myself. That drive combined with dissatisfaction with where I was working pushed me to sell my stuff and head east to New York. 

So we obviously have to talk about Top Chef, what was that like?

Of course! So when I was working in Houston I was profiled in Star Chef, which is an industry oriented online publication. I guess Star Chef sent my profile to Top Chef and they really liked my energy and asked me to be part of the show. It was a really amazing experience; I knew if I didn’t do it I would regret it forever. 

So after Top Chef and the move to New York what kitchen did you end up in?

I actually didn’t have a job, I just moved in with my sister. I have a great relationship with Star Chef; they were really helpful and they steered me towards a job at Alfred Portale’s Gotham Bar and Grill. Gotham has to be one of my top New York kitchen experiences; it was a really great first gig. After Gotham I moved to a few other places throughout the city, I was trying to find a kitchen that I really vibed with.

How did you end up at The Gander?

A friend introduced me to the team and I was brought on. I have completely revamped the program there as well as Recette, which Jesse Schenker also owns. 

How do you approach desserts? 

What I love to do with desserts is take two really familiar dishes and make a love child out of them. Right now we are doing this crazy mix between hot coco and a chocolate German cake, we call it “The Hot German”. I love it. For me when you make desserts you have to remember that it’s optional, you have to make them want it. I want it to be familiar enough that you can taste it in your head. 

What’s your favorite restaurant in the city right now?

Uncle Boons! It is the best restaurant in the city, hands down! I also really love eating in Korea-town.

If you weren’t a dessert chef, what would you be doing?

An interior designer! I am constantly redoing and rearranging my apartment. 

Where do you see yourself in the future? 

I want to own my own place. I have a very strong view about what a dining experience should be, and I really want to show that to people.

Top to Bottom: Jon Fancey

Top to Bottom is quick-fire interview series where we show off our cutest friends in the world of food.

jonfancey

Jon Fancey started bagging groceries at 14 at his hometown Ohio location of the now defunct grocery store Big Bear (nothing is coincidental). While attending college, he worked in several kitchens and specialty food stores. Later, an academic research job in New York City led him back to food. He spent the following years working in kitchens, catering events and manning high end cheese and charcuterie counters across the city. Today, Jon works for Bi-Rite Markets in San Francisco, curating cheese selections for the Bay Area institution. When he's not working or cooking dinner for his adorable other half, you can find him cuddling with his British Shorthair cat or drinking cheap beer in SOMA. 

Jon and Elton John the Cat

Jon and Elton John the Cat

Jasper Hill Farm’s Bayley Hazen Blue

Jasper Hill Farm’s Bayley Hazen Blue

Sightglass Coffee

Sightglass Coffee

Honey Soundsystem

Honey Soundsystem

SF Eagle

SF Eagle

For more Top to Bottom features:

Gus Reckle

Hesli Carvalho

We got Mr. Fancey to answer some of our burning questions:

How did you get into cheese?

There are two requirements for working in cheese retail – knife skills & a desire to absorb (somewhat useless) knowledge.  I spent years dicing vegetables in kitchens & studying marginally important historical topics – so deciding to pursue cheese in my late 20s was much easier than choosing between culinary or graduate school.  Cheese is also one of the tastiest conservations of an agricultural product and most all of them have an amazing story – it’s really kept me engaged and is responsible for turning me into the food professional that I am today.  

What would be your last meal?

I grew up with my very proper & conservative grandparents in Cleveland – I spent my early years wearing khakis & cardigans and eating my grandmother’s Midwestern comfort food.  My last meal would definitely be one of her Sunday suppers – my favorite was pot roast with mashed potatoes & succotash.  She’s the only person I’ve seen make a flawless angel food cake from scratch – I’d want that for my last dessert.

Favorite spots in San Francisco to eat at?

  • Breakfast at Dottie’s on Street – one of us is ordering my favorite plate: Black Bean Cakes with Poached Eggs, Grilled Cornbread, and Home Fries.
  • Late Morning Coffee at Sightglass – the best cup of iced coffee in town
  • Light-ish Lunch at Mission Cheese on Valencia Street – a great cheese focused café owned by one of the best couples I know.  We get an adventurous cheese board, an order of their house made pate & pickles.  If it’s cold & foggy – an order of raclette, too.
  • An after lunch chocolate chip cookie from Craftsmen & Wolves – probably the best cookie in town.
  • Make a trek to Ocean Beach for the best Chinese food in the city at Old Mandarin – a small ‘Islamic Chinese’ restaurant totally off the radar operated by a really colorful family.  Anything with lamb is amazing – the vegetable hand pies are one of my favorite bites in town, too.  The place is BYOB, too – making it an even better deal.
  • If we are really going for it and want dessert – a scoop of salted caramel or rincanelas ice cream from Bi-Rite Creamery.

Favorite party or bar in SF?

I enjoy the Lonestar, Eagle, and Powerhouse in the South of Market neighborhood. My other half is a DJ & one of the original members of Honey Soundsystem – the San Francisco queer party that put a spotlight on the best house & techno music.  It used to be every Sunday night – a weekly ritual that provided many memorable moments.  It’s no longer every Sunday (thank goodness) – but Honey parties on holiday weekends are my favorite way to really let loose.